The annoying trick once you have an HSA is that you basically need to put $3k balance into it to keep from paying recurring fees on a decent savings account (HSA or Sterling, I think), or you have to have over a certain amount to then be allowed to use it to either buy funds (often overpriced) or do self-directed trading (also usually on subpar terms).
It's essentially a Roth IRA; it actually makes sense, due to compounding, to pay cash for anything your insurance doesn't cover, and max out your HSA every year, keeping it in there, and reinvesting. Well, it makes sense if 1) you have enough income or assets to want to shift an extra $3k/yr into Roth IRA equivalent and 2) you don't fear the law will change before you retire or need lots of uninsured health care money.
Another thing that can be annoying about HSAs is that they also have account closure fees. If you're going to shut down your HSA, make sure you drain it to $0 before you call to close it out. I lost $15 that way.
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The annoying trick once you have an HSA is that you basically need to put $3k balance into it to keep from paying recurring fees on a decent savings account (HSA or Sterling, I think), or you have to have over a certain amount to then be allowed to use it to either buy funds (often overpriced) or do self-directed trading (also usually on subpar terms).
It's essentially a Roth IRA; it actually makes sense, due to compounding, to pay cash for anything your insurance doesn't cover, and max out your HSA every year, keeping it in there, and reinvesting. Well, it makes sense if 1) you have enough income or assets to want to shift an extra $3k/yr into Roth IRA equivalent and 2) you don't fear the law will change before you retire or need lots of uninsured health care money.
Another thing that can be annoying about HSAs is that they also have account closure fees. If you're going to shut down your HSA, make sure you drain it to $0 before you call to close it out. I lost $15 that way.