Aquamacs has a solid fullscreen environment, and you gotta love the mac's text rendering.

First thing I did was swap to option = alt, command = meta.

Next was load up CEDET, and enable all the excessive display helpers. I'll eventually pear them down, but for now it's nice. Specifically, the header bar shows the current function/method body I'm in, and there's an overline over every signature.

Really nice to parse through large source files, especially when they're full of long definitions. Hey, no judging.