Testing a big more, just dropping "dlig" from the feature settings declaration turns off the awful st ligature. So they don't have to 'all' be turned off to get rid of that one. What I don't know is what other ones get turned off by dropping "dlig" from the declaration.
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Turning this clause off in your style sheet turns off that awful st ligature:
font-feature-settings: "liga", "dlig";
So just remove that clause from your stylesheet and you'll be rid of that ligature.
I like ligatures when they're used well, but that one is just incredibly distracting.
Shame the advice is to turn them off completely...
Testing a big more, just dropping "dlig" from the feature settings declaration turns off the awful st ligature. So they don't have to 'all' be turned off to get rid of that one. What I don't know is what other ones get turned off by dropping "dlig" from the declaration.